Spider Farmer 2′ x 4′ Grow Tent Setup :: Installing SF-2000 With PAR Measurements!

Are you looking to set up a compact grow tent with the perfect light? Let’s check out the Spider Farmer SF-2000 LED Grow Light set up in their 2’x4.5’ grow tent! Welcome to The Hippie Geeks, lets dig into this review.

We recently reviewed the Spider Farmer SF-2000 LED grow light and we loved it. When Spider Farmer wanted to provide us a sample of their 2’ x 4.5’ Grow tent to review with another SF-2000 to go into it, we told them we would love to. They are great to work with, and while they provide these items for us to review, that in no way influences what you are about to see.

As a quick note, you commented on our previous SF-2000 review that we only had LUX readings and not PAR values. We recently picked up a PAR meter, and you will be able to find PAR readings for the light at various heights inside of this tent at the end of the video. Before that though, lets get this tent set up.

When opening the box, it tells you to not use a knife. However, with the intelligent way that they have this packed, you would have to try very hard to cut thru into the tent fabric. On top is a plastic bag holding the metal structure of the tent, and a second bag with the metal corners. Under that is another cardboard panel, and finally under that is the grow tent fabric. Set the cardboard aside and pull the structure bars and corners out of their bags.

The instructions on how to put the tent together are super clear and easy to follow, especially if you have set up a grow tent before. I like to put the top and bottom of the structure together first, then place the bottom on the floor to put all of the uprights into. After that I will just lift the top up onto the uprights and set it into place. Once everything is snapped together, carefully lay the structure over onto its front so that we can put the tent fabric on it.

Getting the fabric on these structures is always a bit of a pain, but Spider Farmer actually made this fairly easy. Once you get the fabric unfolded, look for the door zipper, it should be in the upper corner on the left when you are facing it, and you will see the Spider Farmer logo in the upper right. Start unzipping it, once you get to the bottom of the flap, just keep going. It will actually zip off three sides of the bottom of the fabric which is what will let you get it onto the structure.

Once you have it unzipped, flop the door over one side so that the wide back side of the tent is facing up. You then want to slip the structure up into the top of the tent like a foot going into a sock, don’t force it or it may rip. Just make sure that it isn’t caught anywhere, and it should slide right in. Once the top is in fully, you can then flop the bottom of the tent over the bottom of the structure and start zipping it closed. Once it is zipped, go ahead and set the tent onto its bottom so that you can finish setting it up. Unzip the door to open it up and check out how much space you have in your new tent. Its actual overall dimensions are 55” wide by 28” deep by 78” tall. Now that we have it set up, it is easy to tell that this is a high quality tent. The zippers are strong, the tent material is sturdy and the structure is very solid.

You should have 2 short and one longer crossbar left over, those will go in the tent next. The short bars go in first, with the longer one going in after that, as it will hang below the first two. This should give you plenty of hanging points for your accessories. For us, that means hanging up the Spider Farmer SF-2000. The light itself comes with two ratcheting hangers, but when I am hanging a light as low as I am this one I prefer to use one on each corner, so we ordered a four pack just for this. The ones it comes with are perfectly serviceable however, and you can use them if you want to.

It only takes a moment to get the light hung, and then you can move on to putting the floor into the tent. Unfold the floor into the tent and tie it off at each of the four corners. This will catch any spills that happen while you are watering. It is also easy to remove and clean if necessary. Next up is time to install the exhaust fan that we will be using. This is an 8”, 420 CFM booster fan that we already had laying around. You are looking to get three to five air changes per minute in a grow tent, and as the tent is right around 90 cubic feet we will be able to use a fan speed controller to help quiet our fan down and still get three air changes per minute.

Once all of that is hooked up, I ran an extension cord into the tent to power the SF-2000 and Exhaust fan. I am using the Teckin Smart Plugs that we reviewed a while ago to control the fan and light separately, and on the fan I also have a speed controller so I can quiet it down a bit as they are pretty loud at full speed.

Now that the tent is completely set up, lets get some PAR readings from the SF-2000 when it is installed in this tent. If you haven’t seen it yet, I will have a link to our previous review in the corner of this video along with a link in the description below. The way we are going to test this is by taping out a six inch grid in the bottom of the tent and taking measurements at each of those points. You are going to notice that the edge readings are going to be a bit higher than you would expect, and that is because any reflected light from the sides will add to that reading. That is the reason that I wanted to try out a SF-2000 in this tent, I think that the light coverage will be a perfect match.

Our first readings are taken at 36” from the floor, showing a fairly even distribution with a fall off at the edges, which is to be expected at this height. 36” above the canopy is where we set the light when we move seedlings or clones into the tent, as it gives them plenty of light but doesn’t shock them when going from the T5’s to LED’s.

The next reading set is at 24” with light levels being up across the board, which is to be expected. You will also start to notice with this set the numbers in the lower left seem a bit below where they should be, that is because the tent door is open, and that area has less reflectivity. Forty-five readings later, and we can move on to the next set.

For these ones we moved the light down to 18” and the numbers jump up as you would expect. This is the outer end of where we typically run out lights, we prefer to have them as close as possible, but when we are trying to avoid the stretch or ease the plants into more light we can end up here.

Our final measurements are at 12”, which gives the highest readings as you would expect. As I mentioned earlier our lights are typically as close as we can get them to the canopy, though that will vary depending on the plants that we have in our tent and what stage of growth they are in.

So far, we are thrilled with the tent and it will be perfect for our clones for now. Some of these will get grown for the next 8 weeks to go into the garden as our outdoor crop in the big tent once it empties out, while two will stay in here to finish out a final short indoor grow. If you are interested in any of the products that you have seen in this video, check the description below to find links to all of them

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